Michael Pollan is reductivist in most things. It can make his message simple and pure, but it also misses a lot of nuance.

Take, for example, how quickly "organic" and "natural" and "gluten free" showed up on store shelves. That's agribusiness, catering to the granola hippies and their foodie paranoia. Not out of the kindness of their hearts, but because if you can charge more for an "organic" apple than a normal apple, your profit margins go up. And hey - it costs you nothing to relabel your popcorn as "gluten free." It always makes me chuckle but I've also observed someone struggle with what "asparagus" is.

I suspect you could sell a "small farms bill" that would make both the Mother Earth News crowd and the Cargill crowd happy. Nobody's had any incentive to do so yet. Michael Moore got McDonald's to drop Super-Sized stuff for a while and sell more salads. They stopped selling the salads, though, because nobody fucking bought them. Subway, on the other hand, went from the number nine million to the number two fast food chain by pushing health.

Turn it into an issue and watch how quickly it gets monetized. That's the sort of thing that Michael Pollan doesn't focus on most of the time.